From Krakow to Eger, via Slovakia
Today we leave Poland. I have to say I have fallen for this country
which has delighted and inspired me in so many ways. From the gorgeous
lake district in the north to it's big cities; from it's complex history
to its proud desire for a better future - it has captivated me more
than I imagined it would. And we haven't quite got to the mountainous
region yet - that's on today's itinerary. Our wonderful guide Fil is
partly to thank for this penchant for the place; although he's from
Latvia, he has lived in Krakow for many years (his wife is Polish) and
I've learnt so much from him. We all have. Dziekuje, Fil (thank you, in
Polish - pronounced "jekoya").
We each take a bulging picnic lunch bag from the hotel (two large filled baguettes, plus much more besides!) and set off on our way to Eger in Hungary, via Slovakia. Outside the city confines of Krakow, there are rolling green hills and pretty villages. It's not unlike New Zealand countryside, but with a central European flavour thrown in.
We spend about 30 minutes at a roadside comfort stop so the driver can have his required break. There are small stalls selling local goods and crafts, including a lot of felt items - bags, slippers, all sorts, and it's all a bit different. Suffice to say, the stall owners are smiling as quite a few pieces are purchased in a very short space of time!
Onwards we go. There are roundabouts all the way and the traffic duly flows smoothly ... until we get into the mountains where a mega traffic jam awaits us. It is peak holiday time, it's a stunningly perfect day and families and holidaymakers are out in force to go hiking in the mountains. It's a winding two-lane mountain road, NZ-style; there are cars everywhere and we are moving nowhere. Cars are parked up and down the roadside, walkers are out in force, and the snake of traffic heading our way goes as far as the eye can see. Reminiscent of a holiday weekend at home, we can do nothing but sit and wait and inch forward.
We turn a corner and the mountains come into view. Fil has already prepared us to be amazed and, oh yes, it is indeed a truly jaw-dropping vista. With moving so slowly, we get great views that are not fleeting like they would be if we were zooming along. Soaring into the sky, the peaks are high and pointed. Jagged and layered, they stretch for miles. They are almost other-worldly.
These are the very spectacular Tatra mountains, part of the Carpathian Range, which form the border between Poland and Slovakia. We are in the very south of Poland, having traversed the length of the fabulous country over this past week. There is a ski resort in this neck of the woods - Zakopane. It's very popular and extremely busy in both winter and summer. A look-see would have been great but it's quite a significant side-trip and we will be pushing it to make it to Eger as it is, especially given this traffic situation, so that is off the cards. A new motorway is being built directly to Zakopane from Krakow which will alleviate some of the traffic issues. But for now we must grind things out slowly.
We cross the border into Slovakia, have a lunch break, and continue on. The traffic eases up considerably on the Slovakian side of the border but, unfortunately, this huge traffic delay has put us very much behind schedule and our planned guided visit to Spis Castle is looking in jeopardy. Fil and I consult each other and decide our castle visit will need to be a shortened one as we will arrive there so much later than planned. We reschedule but, as we slowly get closer, and time keeps ticking, Fil and I realise that even a short guided visit means we will be pushing it to make it to Eger by nightfall. There is only one option - to call in for a brief look-see and short walk around the site, abandoning the guided visit. Shame, but it's the only way, and I sadly let the group know.
We turn a corner and voila, there is the castle; it looks incredibly picturesque sitting perched up there on the hill in its ruinous state. It's a huge 12th Century castle which was destroyed by fire in the late 1700s and is mostly now in ruins. Sometimes, castles in this sort of state look much more atmospheric from afar than up close, and I do think this is the case with Spis. As we drive nearer, the perspective and shape of it gets a little bit lost - but it is still hugely impressive.
We park below the castle and some of the group get out and wander up the incline towards the gate. Rain is threatening. Some stay on the bus.
The views from the pathway to the castle are beautiful, looking out across the valley. We are high up here; patterned fields in all colours of nature spread before us, little villages dotted about, framed by hills and mountains. And the castle as a centrepiece up behind us.
I walk up the path with Elaine and we spend a while goofing around trying to take selfies with the castle behind. We are not selfie-gurus and it's not a hugely successful endeavour but we capture a couple of reasonable photos that will remind us forever of this moment. Elaine decides to head back to the bus and I continue walking upwards. As I get to the bend in the path, I see David head off to ... well, to be honest I don't know where he's going! Diana is up ahead, unaware.
"David, where are you going ...?" I ask. Too late, he is out of sight. I'm torn as to whether to follow him or not. Either way, there could be trouble. My sense of responsibility and curious nature win out and I go after him. I spot him up ahead past some bushes. OMG, I watch him slip and slither, lose his balance but thankfully stay on his feet. It's slippery on these grassy rocky steep banks. I just about slip myself as I hurry to catch him up. Like naughty school kids, we giggle and go a little further along the ridge - at his instigation not mine! It gives us a different perspective from this vantage point, looking up at the castle (we are right below it now), and looking down below across the fields. Conscious of time, we turn back, stumbling and laughing, grabbing hold of branches and each other for stability. Without too much ado, we reach the main path again, where we meet the others coming down, including Diana, who is rather confounded to find us emerging from - where exactly!? We confess to our brief "off the beaten track" escapade and I admit to being a little worried about things underfoot there for a bit. David is totally nonchalant. Diana laughs and is just glad he hasn't ruined his pants!
In summary, Spis Castle and its surroundings are stunning, especially today with moody skies. Inside, there is apparently a torture dungeon and a museum with rooms set up to showcase life in the Middle Ages. We've seen lots of castles and there is no doubt that Spis, this castle full of forlorn grandeur, would offer its own take of castle life. Movies like Dragonheart (1996) with Dennis Quaid and The Last Legion (2007) with Colin Firth and Ben Kingsley were filmed here.In 1993, the castle became a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.
We continue on towards Eger, along impossibly narrow roads (is there even room for a bus?), modern motorways, bridges and tunnels. The scenery is rural and lovely. For a long stretch of the journey there are acres of sunflowers on either side of the road, their heads of yellow waving cheerily at us. There are also many fields of haybales. We even spot a field of sheep. There are old villages and new developments, high rise apartment blocks, industrial areas. Major road construction is happening along the way. There is definitely plenty to see.
Eventually, after what has been a very long day of travelling, we arrive at our hotel in Eger and meet our Hungarian guide, Modos Tunde. In Hungary, the first name is the surname and the last name is the first name. Tunde is delightful and helps us settle into the Imola Hotel Platan. It is a spa hotel and is modern, stylish and welcoming.
Sheila's leg has been very bad today so en route Fil and I had talked with Tunde, asking if she could please organise some medical help upon arrival. Sheila's understandable worry is that if she keeps on keeping on, even at a reduced level, she may be doing some long term damage. So far we haven't had a definite diagnosis. A doctor comes to see her in her room soon after our arrival; hopefully he will have some answers. He is on time, friendly and professional and assures Sheila that any walking and movement she can manage won't harm her. This is what she wanted to hear. He also advises that soaking in the therapeutic waters here at our hotel is a very good tonic. Being a spa town, with baths and spas and caves and thermal valleys, many people come to Eger for healing. Our hotel has its own spa with various pools and treatments; forgoing dinner Sheila heads for the pool as advised by the good doctor, who leaves without requiring any payment. What a lovely thing.
After a quick freshen up after a long day on the bus, we head into the town with Tunde. It's a short walk, but longer than some people would have liked. And it's quite late. The restaurant is fabulous and heartily welcomes us. The meal is truly incredible, each course matched with a delicious local wine. Dessert is cottage cheese dumplings, a Hungarian speciality - I rather like them and, although not everyone is a fan, we all learn about this new taste treat.
We walk back to the hotel under an inky sky. I can't imagine anyone doesn't sleep well tonight.
OBSERVATION OF THE DAY: Sometimes the view from afar of places, buildings, natural wonders, landmarks etc is so magnificent that memories will be etched in your mind, without even setting foot in them. Such views are to be savoured. Our view of the Tatra mountains today is truly magnificent, our view of Spis Castle from the road utterly incredible. If you don't get the opportunity to explore up close, be content with the view from afar - it's still a piece of magic in your life.
We each take a bulging picnic lunch bag from the hotel (two large filled baguettes, plus much more besides!) and set off on our way to Eger in Hungary, via Slovakia. Outside the city confines of Krakow, there are rolling green hills and pretty villages. It's not unlike New Zealand countryside, but with a central European flavour thrown in.
We spend about 30 minutes at a roadside comfort stop so the driver can have his required break. There are small stalls selling local goods and crafts, including a lot of felt items - bags, slippers, all sorts, and it's all a bit different. Suffice to say, the stall owners are smiling as quite a few pieces are purchased in a very short space of time!
Onwards we go. There are roundabouts all the way and the traffic duly flows smoothly ... until we get into the mountains where a mega traffic jam awaits us. It is peak holiday time, it's a stunningly perfect day and families and holidaymakers are out in force to go hiking in the mountains. It's a winding two-lane mountain road, NZ-style; there are cars everywhere and we are moving nowhere. Cars are parked up and down the roadside, walkers are out in force, and the snake of traffic heading our way goes as far as the eye can see. Reminiscent of a holiday weekend at home, we can do nothing but sit and wait and inch forward.
We turn a corner and the mountains come into view. Fil has already prepared us to be amazed and, oh yes, it is indeed a truly jaw-dropping vista. With moving so slowly, we get great views that are not fleeting like they would be if we were zooming along. Soaring into the sky, the peaks are high and pointed. Jagged and layered, they stretch for miles. They are almost other-worldly.
These are the very spectacular Tatra mountains, part of the Carpathian Range, which form the border between Poland and Slovakia. We are in the very south of Poland, having traversed the length of the fabulous country over this past week. There is a ski resort in this neck of the woods - Zakopane. It's very popular and extremely busy in both winter and summer. A look-see would have been great but it's quite a significant side-trip and we will be pushing it to make it to Eger as it is, especially given this traffic situation, so that is off the cards. A new motorway is being built directly to Zakopane from Krakow which will alleviate some of the traffic issues. But for now we must grind things out slowly.
We cross the border into Slovakia, have a lunch break, and continue on. The traffic eases up considerably on the Slovakian side of the border but, unfortunately, this huge traffic delay has put us very much behind schedule and our planned guided visit to Spis Castle is looking in jeopardy. Fil and I consult each other and decide our castle visit will need to be a shortened one as we will arrive there so much later than planned. We reschedule but, as we slowly get closer, and time keeps ticking, Fil and I realise that even a short guided visit means we will be pushing it to make it to Eger by nightfall. There is only one option - to call in for a brief look-see and short walk around the site, abandoning the guided visit. Shame, but it's the only way, and I sadly let the group know.
We turn a corner and voila, there is the castle; it looks incredibly picturesque sitting perched up there on the hill in its ruinous state. It's a huge 12th Century castle which was destroyed by fire in the late 1700s and is mostly now in ruins. Sometimes, castles in this sort of state look much more atmospheric from afar than up close, and I do think this is the case with Spis. As we drive nearer, the perspective and shape of it gets a little bit lost - but it is still hugely impressive.
We park below the castle and some of the group get out and wander up the incline towards the gate. Rain is threatening. Some stay on the bus.
The views from the pathway to the castle are beautiful, looking out across the valley. We are high up here; patterned fields in all colours of nature spread before us, little villages dotted about, framed by hills and mountains. And the castle as a centrepiece up behind us.
I walk up the path with Elaine and we spend a while goofing around trying to take selfies with the castle behind. We are not selfie-gurus and it's not a hugely successful endeavour but we capture a couple of reasonable photos that will remind us forever of this moment. Elaine decides to head back to the bus and I continue walking upwards. As I get to the bend in the path, I see David head off to ... well, to be honest I don't know where he's going! Diana is up ahead, unaware.
"David, where are you going ...?" I ask. Too late, he is out of sight. I'm torn as to whether to follow him or not. Either way, there could be trouble. My sense of responsibility and curious nature win out and I go after him. I spot him up ahead past some bushes. OMG, I watch him slip and slither, lose his balance but thankfully stay on his feet. It's slippery on these grassy rocky steep banks. I just about slip myself as I hurry to catch him up. Like naughty school kids, we giggle and go a little further along the ridge - at his instigation not mine! It gives us a different perspective from this vantage point, looking up at the castle (we are right below it now), and looking down below across the fields. Conscious of time, we turn back, stumbling and laughing, grabbing hold of branches and each other for stability. Without too much ado, we reach the main path again, where we meet the others coming down, including Diana, who is rather confounded to find us emerging from - where exactly!? We confess to our brief "off the beaten track" escapade and I admit to being a little worried about things underfoot there for a bit. David is totally nonchalant. Diana laughs and is just glad he hasn't ruined his pants!
In summary, Spis Castle and its surroundings are stunning, especially today with moody skies. Inside, there is apparently a torture dungeon and a museum with rooms set up to showcase life in the Middle Ages. We've seen lots of castles and there is no doubt that Spis, this castle full of forlorn grandeur, would offer its own take of castle life. Movies like Dragonheart (1996) with Dennis Quaid and The Last Legion (2007) with Colin Firth and Ben Kingsley were filmed here.In 1993, the castle became a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.
We continue on towards Eger, along impossibly narrow roads (is there even room for a bus?), modern motorways, bridges and tunnels. The scenery is rural and lovely. For a long stretch of the journey there are acres of sunflowers on either side of the road, their heads of yellow waving cheerily at us. There are also many fields of haybales. We even spot a field of sheep. There are old villages and new developments, high rise apartment blocks, industrial areas. Major road construction is happening along the way. There is definitely plenty to see.
Eventually, after what has been a very long day of travelling, we arrive at our hotel in Eger and meet our Hungarian guide, Modos Tunde. In Hungary, the first name is the surname and the last name is the first name. Tunde is delightful and helps us settle into the Imola Hotel Platan. It is a spa hotel and is modern, stylish and welcoming.
Sheila's leg has been very bad today so en route Fil and I had talked with Tunde, asking if she could please organise some medical help upon arrival. Sheila's understandable worry is that if she keeps on keeping on, even at a reduced level, she may be doing some long term damage. So far we haven't had a definite diagnosis. A doctor comes to see her in her room soon after our arrival; hopefully he will have some answers. He is on time, friendly and professional and assures Sheila that any walking and movement she can manage won't harm her. This is what she wanted to hear. He also advises that soaking in the therapeutic waters here at our hotel is a very good tonic. Being a spa town, with baths and spas and caves and thermal valleys, many people come to Eger for healing. Our hotel has its own spa with various pools and treatments; forgoing dinner Sheila heads for the pool as advised by the good doctor, who leaves without requiring any payment. What a lovely thing.
After a quick freshen up after a long day on the bus, we head into the town with Tunde. It's a short walk, but longer than some people would have liked. And it's quite late. The restaurant is fabulous and heartily welcomes us. The meal is truly incredible, each course matched with a delicious local wine. Dessert is cottage cheese dumplings, a Hungarian speciality - I rather like them and, although not everyone is a fan, we all learn about this new taste treat.
We walk back to the hotel under an inky sky. I can't imagine anyone doesn't sleep well tonight.
OBSERVATION OF THE DAY: Sometimes the view from afar of places, buildings, natural wonders, landmarks etc is so magnificent that memories will be etched in your mind, without even setting foot in them. Such views are to be savoured. Our view of the Tatra mountains today is truly magnificent, our view of Spis Castle from the road utterly incredible. If you don't get the opportunity to explore up close, be content with the view from afar - it's still a piece of magic in your life.
Wow, this is something I was browsing the net since morning for my upcoming trip to Vilnius. The information is without any doubt, fruitful, and I will definitely give a try for sure. Plus, I also request other readers to give a thought on this blog if they are planning for a Europe trip in the near future.
ReplyDeleteWhere To Book Passenger Bus Rental | Where To Book Coach Hire Service | Bus Rental Companies | Tour Bus Rental | NlBus Transportation Services