Road to Tallin

Today is going to be a long day in the bus, transitioning from Russia to Estonia, accompanied by Anastasia. We are warned that crossing the border may take up to three hours. 

We set off, along the “fishbone highway” which was built with the help of the Turkish and so named because the giant arches overhead resemble fish bones.  The countryside passes us by out the window; there are fields and houses of all shapes and sizes.

A morning comfort stop is made at a roadside cafe. There is only one loo so it takes a while for us all to do our business. We buy ice creams and snacks. I get a fresh homemade egg & spring onion pasty thing like I had at Peterhof. It’s delicious. The Russian ice cream - whether freshly scooped into a waffle cone or purchased from a deep freezer - is delicious and cheap; we’ve had a few along the way. The man behind the counter is amused by us - and also had a profitable morning.

Here we are at the border. There are several stages to enable us to get out of Russia and into Estonia. 

First, on the Russian side, they come on board and check our passports. Then we wait in the bus till they are ready to process us. We are delayed a little as several local buses get priority over us. When our turn comes, we traipse off the bus taking all our bags and luggage with us as well. 

While we are shuffling along from A to B towards Estonia, guards inspect every inch of the bus - in, out, over, under. Are they looking for drugs, forbidden goods or perhaps a rogue spy!? 

They inspect and stamp our passports and let us proceed. The border patrol buildings are from the original Soviet days and look and feel every bit the remnant of that era.  We must not take photos but we can use the loo. It is possibly the most hideous stinky toilet I have used in years. Disgusting. 

The Estonian border control area is a short distance on and we go through a similar process there but it’s not so austere and the buildings are modern. The whole procedure takes 2.5 hours and are told this is swift. Often it can take 3 hours or more. I’m pleased to report a clean toilet on the Estonian side. We are now in Euro territory and our remaining roubles are redundant.

A few kilometres later and the change in environmental vibe is marked - and so are the roads. Estonia is a hugely progressive and reasonably prosperous country, and this becomes apparent. We stop for a break at a service station. Petrol was cheap in Russia (about NZ$1 per litre) but here it is dearer, around NZ$2.70. The roads are infinitely better. 

The local beer is called Saku and you can buy it here at the service station, along with wines, spirits, ice creams and chocolate bars of your choice.

Onward to Tallin; around 6pm we arrive meet our new guide for the Baltic states, Marianna. We farewell Anastasia and our driver who will return all the way to St Petersburg tonight. There are actually two drivers so that driving hours for the return trip are not exceeded. Anastasia has been marvellous and looked after us well.

We check into My City Hotel, a pale blue building on a small square with a fountain. After a freshen up, Marianna guides us on a stroll around the old town. It’s beautiful, with lovely towers and a big square. Cobbled lanes lead to interesting shops and cafes, there’s an old fortress, lots of people out wandering and a really nice feel to this place. 

Time for dinner at Peppersack on the square. It has a real medieval vibe and the food is superb. Duck confit is on the menu tonight. Half way through, two guys appear and perform a mock fight scene, first with fists, then with swords, which are wielded dangerously close to Neil and Anne at the end of the table. Some try a Vana Tallin nightcap - a local tipple that is a rum-based shot. Not bad! 

It’s been a long day of travel, sleep is welcome.

OBSERVATION OF THE DAY: It was interesting to learn that Turkey funded the new main road in/out of St Petersburg. It’s a toll road and all revenue goes back to Turkey. The Russians don’t mind - they now have a fantastic new road, and they know they needed it. In came the Turks to build it and voila, the cars got moving. I think Auckland could benefit from these Turkish roading experts - perhaps they’d do the same for us if we asked them nicely. 

Seriously, let’s ask them!