Out and About in Vilnius - Churches, Amber and a Castle

We are in Lithuania, day 13 and country no. 5 on 29th July (this blog is way behind real time but I’m working on catching up!)

Breakfast is delicious but we’re all getting a little worried about the amount of food we’re eating so trying not to overdo things at the start of the day. We set off on a tour of the city - population 550,000. A new president was recently elected - after 10 years with women in the position, this time it’s a man. The President can do two terms of five years, then must step down.

Cathedral Square is the heart of Vilnius. Most citizens are Catholics, with Russian Orthodox as well. It’s a very green city, with 44% of it being Parks and forests. But it’s also quite pink - many of the buildings and churches are pink. In fact, at one time all the buildings here were pink!

Lithuania is totally flat, there are no mountains. The highest point is just 300m. There are five universities, 3,000 lakes and 18 rivers.

We go into a rather lovely [pink] Orthodox church where a service is taking place - standing, sermons and song are the name of the game. And a very rich and ornate red and gold robe worn by the priest. The altar is emerald green.

We see a bit of the city by bus - there’s a fortress on a hill, the Jewish ghetto (only one synagogue remains of 135, many Jews killed or fled during the war) and a large Soviet-era slab of a building that was the city stadium but now sits unloved. It’s kind of cool as a neglected monolithic redundant reminder of a bygone era. 

New apartments and developments are being built all over the city, many with river views, putting them at the pricier end of the property spectrum. 

There are roundabouts everywhere rather than traffic lights. These roundabouts are large and efficient - and very beautiful, with colourful flowers and patterns. Not only do they work well, they look great too.

The Church of St Peter and Paul is magnificent inside. Like the hall at Rundale Palace in Latvia, it is all white. It is stunning and beautiful and I love it. There is a huge crystal chandelier in the form of a Viking boat, and ancient instruments and artefacts around the place. The detail of everything blows our minds and I can’t get enough of this marvellous white interior. 

We visit St Anne’s Church, a Catholic Church in flamboyant gothic style. The interior is more sedate and, of course, beautiful and ornate. There is a baptism taking place for a young girl in a side room and we get to glimpse the occasion through the open door. 

After a brief visit to amber museum and shop - where we learn  about the different colours and values of amber, which is found and sold throughout the Baltic - we walk through an arty part of town with lots of street art; lovely mini artworks hung on walls in the street. Then it’s time for lunch in a beautiful seafood restaurant. We eat psychedelic pink soup - a local beetroot-based favourite. It’s jolly nice. The fish is delicious and the cheese curd and fruit dessert was divine.

Now it’s off to Trakai Island Castle we go. Built in the 14th century and set within a lake, it has many stories to tell. It fell into disrepair and was restored after the war. It’s an unusual castle, with external wooden steps in an internal courtyard that some in the group decide not to venture up or down. They’re not the easiest steps to negotiate, especially with the crowds squeezing past each other.

There are tapestries and treasures and we discover about the Karaims - an ethnic minority of Turkish origins.

The heat is oppressive and we’re all feeling it today. In some of the upstairs rooms it’s like a furnace. 

This area is a popular spot for locals to come and pedalo and kayak and boat. 

Back in town, the rest of the day/evening is free. Sharon and I do a spot of shopping and enjoy a drink in the City Hall square as music plays, people wander past and night falls. Another glorious - and very hot - day comes to an end. 

OBSERVATION OF THE DAY: Lithuanians have a rather unusual and distinctive look, especially the males. Eyes close together, low brows, high sloping foreheads. Females have more rounded features. There’s a definite look that is quite apparent to those who take the time to observe. They are all very proud of their country. The language is related to Latvian, being Slavic-based; it’s complex. Fascinating history. Vilnius is a great town, I really enjoyed our time spent here. Go if you get the chance.